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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.